Domino Socks

by Jennifer Brown

 

 

MATERIALS:

Koigu or other fingering weight yarn: 1 to 2 skeins variegated colour (VC)

Fingering weight yarn: 1 skein solid colour (SC) that contrasts with variegated

Needles: double pointed U.S. size 1 or 2 (2.5 or 3.0mm)

 

GAUGE:

Square size - 1 inch blocked

 

NOTES:

Double decrease on knit side k3tog or slip stitch, k2tog, and pass slipped stitch over

Double decrease on purl side p3tog or slip stitch, p2tog, and pass slipped stitch over

Odd Rows = Right Side of the work

Even Rows = Wrong Side of the work

 

ABBREVIATIONS:

 

SC - Solid Colour

VC - Variegated Colour

aitk - as if to knit

k1b - knit stitch through the back of the loop

yf - yarn forward

sl - slip

aitp = as if to purl

 

The base square used in the sock cuff is made up a garter stitch ridge of the solid colour with 4 rows of stockinette of the variegated colour. This is repeated twice and the last few rows are the solid colour in stockinette.

 

When you are working subsequent squares, you will include the single remaining stitch of each square when you go to work your pick up/cast on  (for example, if you need to pick up 9 sts, cast on 10, for a total of 19 sts, one of those sts should be the final stitch of a previous square).

 

EDITOR'S NOTE:  If you're concerned about working such fine squares the first time out, you can always practice either by knitting a sample of Square One below in heavier yarn, or by using the garter welt sample square that's found in the garter welt pillow lesson (it's a slightly different square, though).

 

METHOD

 

Square One:

 

Cast on: With SC cast on 19 stitches using the french provisional, or other loose cast-on.

Row 2 (SC):  K1b, k7, double decrease, k to last st, yf, sl last st aitp.

Row 3 (VC):  K1b, k to last st, yf, sl last st aitp.

Row 4 (VC):  K1b, p6, double decrease, p to last st and sl last st aitp.

Row 5 (VC):  K1b, k to last st, yf, sl last st aitp.

Row 6 (VC):  K1b, p5, double decrease, p to last st and sl last st aitp.

Row 7 (SC):  K1b, k to last st, yf, sl last st aitp.

Row 8 (SC):  K1b, k4, double decrease, k to last st, yf, sl last st aitp.

Row 9 (VC):  K1b, k to last st, yf, sl last st aitp.

Row 10 (VC): K1b, p3, double decrease, p to last st, sl last st aitp.

Row 11 (VC): K1b, k to last st, yf, sl last st aitp.

Row 12 (VC): K1b, p2, double decrease, p to last st, sl last st aitp.

Row 13 (SC): K1b, k to last st, yf, sl last st aitp.

Row 14 (SC): K1b, p1, double decrease, p to last st, sl last st aitp.

Row 15 (SC): K1b, k to last st, yf, sl last st aitp.

Row 16 (SC): K1b, double decrease (purlwise), sl last st aitp.

Row 17 (SC): K1b, k1, yf, sl last st aitp.

Row 18 (SC): Double Decrease (purlwise) (one stitch remaining on needle)

 

Square Two:

 

With SC, pick up 9 sts along the edge of Square one, and then cast on 10 sts (19 stitches total).  Continue as given for Square One, starting with Row 2.

Continue working squares in this manner, picking up stitches along the edge of the previous square and casting on, until a total of seven squares are worked on the first row.  Proceed to Second Row of Squares.

 

Second Row of Squares:

 

For the first square on the second row: Cast on 10 sts,  then pick up 9 stitches along the edge of the first square on row one (19 stitches). Continue as given for Square One starting with Row 2.

 

For the second square on the second row: Pick up 9 along side, pick up 1 st at corner, pick up 9 sts along edge of second square on first row.  Continue as given for Square One starting with Row 2.

Continue in this manner until 7 squares have been worked on the second row.

 

Third Row of Squares:

 

The third row of squares is worked in exactly the same manner as the second.

 

CONTINUING THE WORK:

 

When you have finished, you will have a piece 7 squares wide and 3 squares high. This size should fit a size 8 foot.  Note that if you need to, you can add an additional square; however, this will add another 1 inch of width to the cuff.  Block by stretching to approximate width and sew together.

 

Once the squares have been joined then continue with a regular sock pattern. Pick up 64 stitches along the edge of the squares (7 squares x 9 sts plus 1).

 

Proceed with purl ridges for a transition section before starting the heel.

With SC - 3 purl rows and 1 knit row

With VC - 1 knit row, 3 purl rows, and 1 knit row

With SC - 1 knit row, 3 purl rows, and 1 knit row

With VC - 6 knit rows

 

Start heel, and continue with rest of foot, using any pattern for fingering weight socks.

 

Jennifer's finishing note: I also did a single crochet row at the top of the sock.

 

EDITOR'S NOTE:  You might already have your own favourite sock pattern, but just in case, you will find one suitable for fingering weight yarn at Joanna Daneman's Knits 'N Bytes page.  It's based on 60 stitches, but you can easily follow the pattern directions with the 64 stitches for this sock.

 

Images and Instructions Copyright November 2000 by Jennifer Brown. All rights reserved. This pattern is intended for your personal use only. It may be shared with others as long as it remains fully intact, including this copyright notice. It may not be sold, used to produce items for sale, re-printed or used on another web page without written permission from the author.

 

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Text and Images Copyright 2000-2004 Katherine Matthews (except where otherwise noted)

This page last modified 07 May 2017