Painters Choice-Home Improvement Services
Serving Elgin,Oxford and Norfolk Counties.

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 Tip: Avoid using fancy fur type paint as it can not be fixed short of scraping the entire
surface off the wall and starting again, use wall paper or vinyl type coatings instead as
they are cheaper and easier to remove if damaged or if you decide you want a change.

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Click on a problem to find the cure listed ................ thank you.

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Problems encountered

 Peeling from Concrete Floors
 Peeling from Masonry and Brick
   Peeling From Mill-Glazed Red Cedar or Redwood Siding
 Peeling from Galvanized Metal.
 Cedar Stain (Tannic Acid Bleed)
 Wax Bleeding on Hardboard Siding
Blistering
Lap Marks
Surfactant Leaching
Mildew
Uneven Gloss
Poor Hiding Of Colors
Peeling From Plaster Walls

Reasons & cures

Problem: Peeling from Concrete Floors

Reason:

Concrete floors present numerous potential adhesion problems for some inferior coatings. Concrete is a highly alkaline material which reacts chemically with oil or alkyd based finishes to weaken their adhesive bond . Concrete also emits moisture bringing soluble salts, to the surface. This will gradually cause a sandy or dust-like condition at the surface. Sub-surface floors are continually subjected to moisture penetration. All concrete should be poured onto a vapor barrier. Sub-surface concrete should also be poured over a generous level of gravel with further means to remove water when conditions are severe. Moisture is the primary cause for adhesion failure. Other possible causes include hard-trowel concrete which presents a physical barrier to adhesion by not permitting penetration of coatings, another option and likely the best is to not paint such surfaces with inferior products. (We recommend using higher grade products such as Sherwin Williams coatings if you feel you must paint these surfaces.) Older concrete can become crumbed, and accumulations of grease or oil can create a barrier limiting proper adhesion.

Cure:

Remove paint by scraping and sanding. Scrub floor with hot water an industrial type detergent solution. Avoid mild dish washing detergents. These contain skin softening ingredients which interfere with paint adhesion, the same as most household cleaners . It may be necessary to use chemical stripper, follow the directions carefully. Floors that have been subjected to long term oil and grease must be aggressively scrubbed with a grease dissolving compound. Follow the label directions carefully and in all cases, rinse the floor completely and allow the floor to dry for several days. You will now need to etch floor thoroughly. Etching, requires protective goggles, boots and rubber gloves to be worn during the process. Mop on 1part solution of muriatic acid to 10 parts water on clean floor.

Always mix acid into the water, never mix water into acid. Allow solution to remain on surface until bubbling ceases (15to 20 minutes). Flush surface with water and dry completely. When floor is properly etched, it should resemble texture of a finer sandpaper. Etching neutralizes the alkaline surface and provides for much better bond. It also helps to remove salt deposits that occur on concrete surfaces due to alkaline deposits in some cement products. Sand off any loose areas of crumbling concrete. The floor will now be ready to paint.

Problem:Peeling from Masonry and Brick

Reason:

A common cause of peeling on surfaces composed of cement, brick, building block or motor is efflorescence, where soluble salts are present. When dissolved by water, they are carried to the surface and remain after the water has evaporated. Efflorescence occurs on all brick walls. It's a common practice to treat newer brick or concrete with muriatic acid, rinse with water and clean away excess mortar. Rinsing removes only those salts on or near the surface. After painting, salts remaining within the bricks will absorb the moisture and travel to the surface, causing peeling. Peeling can also occur when alkyd or oil paint is applied over un etched concrete. Alkyd resins that come in contact with an alkaline surface form a soap film between the concrete surface and the coating. This will cause softness and loss of adhesion of the alkyd coating and you will need to repeat the above process every 3-5 years. We don't recommend painting these materials if can be avoided.

Cure:

We don't recommend painting these materials if can be avoided. If efflorescence is evident, it must be removed before repainting. First, remove all flaking or chalking paint from the damaged area by wire brushing or sand blasting. If necessary, try applying a solution of 10% muriatic acid, we don't recommend using undiluted vinegar. Rinse with plenty of water. Fill all cracks with patching cement . Prime with appropriate primer. To prevent efflorescence on interior walls, the exterior walls should be sealed properly with a tar emulsion. Be sure excess water is held back during this process.

Problem:Peeling From Mill-Glazed Red Cedar or Redwood Siding

Reason:

Mill-glaze occurs on smooth, flat-grained red cedar and occasionally on redwood. This glaze is caused by the oils and the sap of these woods crystallizing on the surface of cuts due to the heat from the blades used to cut them at the mills.

Cure:

If the surface is unpainted, it is advisable to roughen smooth siding slightly prior to priming. Two coats of primer may be necessary where severe glazing exists. A waiting period of 48 hours after application of first prime coat is recommended before applying a second coat or finish coat. Stains tend to penetrate first coat of primer leaving brownish colored streaks or rings. Refer to "Cedar Stain" for additional information. If stains do occur, re prime stained spots and allow to dry thoroughly before applying finish coats. For repainting over mill glaze problem areas, remove the failed coating by pressure washing or hand scraping then sand and prime as instructed above. Newly installed siding should be sanded and primed as soon as possible. Ultraviolet rays from the sun tend to degrade the integrity of the wood's surface. Bare weathered siding should be sanded prior to coating to remove loose, dead wood fibers.

Problem:Peeling from Galvanized Metal.

Reason:

  Improper priming of surface.  Anti-corrosion chemicals on new, unweathered galvanized surface.  Rusting.  When alkyd or oil-based products are applied over bare galvanized metal, chemical reactions cause a film to form between metal and paint causing it to fail.

Cure:

Remove loose, flaking paint to bare metal ensuring the metal is clean, dry, and free of oil or grease. Wipe new metal with mineral spirits to remove any chemical films remaining from manufacturing processes.

Problem:Cedar Stain (Tannic Acid Bleeding)

Reason:

Stains from red cedar, cypress, and redwood are due to a combination of moisture and insufficient sealing. Moisture carries sap extracts (tannic acid) contained in the wood through paint films. Staining is more likely to be visible when light or medium colors are used. It occurs more frequently with a latex coating than a solvent or oil based coating as it is a water based type stain.

Cure:

Unpainted wood:
If staining occurs during paint application, use two coats of primer before top coating. A waiting period of 48 hours after application of the first primer is recommended before applying the second coat or finish coat. Tannic acid stains will penetrate the first coat of primer leaving brownish streaks or rings, if stains occur, re prime the stained spots allowing it to dry sufficiently and apply the finish coat. Sometimes it is best for the new wood to weather for several weeks prior to painting or you can just use an alkyd primer. Once dry for 48hrs. sand lightly (until smooth) and finish with alkyd or latex coating.

Previously painted surfaces: Stained areas can be washed with a one-to-one mixture of denatured alcohol and water, or wood bleach (oxalic acid). Rinse treated areas well allowing for drying, then apply coat of desired primer and finish coat.

Problem:Wax Bleeding on Hardboard Siding

Reason:

A cause of discoloration seen on painted hardboard siding is "wax bleed". Wax or petrolatum is used in the manufacture of hardboard siding to make it moisture resistant. Wax can migrate to the surface. Once on the surface, wax can change the appearance of a coating by its "wetting" effect or its tendency to increase dirt retention. Contributing factors include:
1. Dark paints exhibit discoloration more readily due to a tendency to absorb heat.
2. Areas lacking adequate coats are more likely to stain. This appears as irregular discoloration on brushed or rolled surfaces where wax bleeding occurs in valleys or thin areas in the application pattern.
3. Paints containing low levels of binder are more porous and are more likely to allow wax migration from hardboard.
4. Exposures subjected to direct sun and heat will accelerate wax bleed.

Cure:

In order to correct a situation where discoloration exists, one must first identify the problem as wax bleed. Do the following:
Place a few drops of household bleach on the discolored area. If there is no whitening or bleaching on the surface, the stain is probably wax. Place water droplets on both normal and discolored areas. If the water beads up and runs off, a wax film is likely. Areas of discoloration should be cleaned with a detergent solution if the surface wax is light. In severe cases, surface must be thoroughly cleaned by wiping with rags wet with a solvent such as mineral spirits. The rags should be changed frequently and the surface allowed to dry before painting.

Problem:Blistering

Reason:

Blistering refers to the formation of a blister caused by vapor expanding between the coated surface and the film. Due to humidity, construction defects, or lack of effective vapor barriers, moisture condenses on or saturates wood siding. Lower humidity and high temperature generate pressures within wood and on adhesive bond of the coating as trapped moisture evaporates. Solvent based coatings are most susceptible. Fresh blisters are filled with water. As the surface dries, water evaporates, but the paint film does not recover. Blistering is accelerated by the swelling effect of moisture on wood. Continued swelling and contraction between day and night humidity and temperature variations weakens adhesion. Another cause is solvent entrapment, or painting with solvent based coatings in direct sunlight on a surface that is too warm. This problem is prevalent in darker colors, due to absorption of heat, more than light colors. Thicker application or re coating prior to complete cure of a previous coat contribute to this type of failure. Under this condition, the paint surface dries before all the solvent is released from the underlying film. Expansion of trapped solvent produces blisters.

Cure:

If blistering was caused by moisture, a number of solutions exist. Repair loose caulking and install vents or exhaust fans. If the home has lap siding, install siding vents. Vents or fans allow moisture from in the house to evaporate before penetrating wood siding. This will minimize future blistering problems. Sand and scrape peeling paint to bare wood. Prime exposed areas and repaint. If large areas of paint have blistered and need to be removed, high pressure washing or use of a heat gun will speed the process. Heat blisters develop in FRESHLY applied coatings only. When broken, they don't contain liquid and are not associated with a surface defect that requires remediation. These blisters may be removed by scraping and sanding. The surface should be re coated under more favorable conditions.

Problem:Lap Marks

Reason:

Lap marks sometimes occur when wet and dry layers overlap during application of paint or stain. This nonuniform appearance can be caused by:
Working too long in one area when painting; too much heat or draft during application; too porous a surface; or the use of an improper thinner. Too much heat or draft causes a rapid loss of solvent or water and speeds up the set time, resulting in a thicker film wherever overlapping occurs.

Solution:

Another coat of paint, spread uniformly, is necessary to cover lap marks. If the finish coat is relatively transparent or the surface is overly porous, a second coat or a primer coat may be necessary. To avoid lap marks, do not paint one section of a large area from top to bottom completely. Instead, paint in small enough sections to maintain a wet edge. (Top to bottom painting is appropriate on shingle surfaces since they provide natural breaking points.) Painting on hot, windy days accelerates drying time. Avoid painting under these conditions. Add thinner sparingly if it is needed.

Problem:Surfactant Leaching

Reason:

All latex paints contain detergent-like materials called surfactants which are necessary for the stability of the paint formulation. In cases where surfactant is leaching from the dried film, this material will dissipate in small amounts. They tend to come out of the film slowly and are easily removed by normal weathering. Under certain curing conditions, such as low temperatures, condensing moisture, etc., this leaching process occurs rapidly and results in a surfactant build-up on the surface. Leached surfactant can appear as a thick brown syrup-like deposit or rundown. On occasion it may assume a white crystalline form. Surfactant leaching is not limited to exterior coatings - it may appear in bathrooms or other areas where moisture condenses on walls. In these instances, a clear amber glossy rundown will be visible.

Cure:

Most often, weathering removes the visible film of surfactant from the surface. The sheen and the color are restored. However, most accumulations of surfactant are observed in areas protected from natural weathering. In these instances, it can be removed with a fine mist from a garden hose or by light rubbing with a wet cloth. Often the best solution is to do nothing and let nature take its course. The surfactant will do no harm and time will correct the problem.

Problem:Mildew

Reason:

Mildew is not caused by paint, but can be avoided more readily by using better brands of paint that have anti-mildew additives. Mildew discoloration is prevalent in warm, moist exposures, but can occur in most climates. Mold and mildew spores are microscopic particles transported by the wind. Spores can remain dormant on a surface until conditions are favorable for growth. Mildew-contaminated surfaces in neighborhoods can supply spores for contamination of other homes in the area. Mildew usually looks similar to dirt accumulation. However, on some surfaces it may appear as dark spots, or be concentrated in clusters. Under magnification a web like pattern is visible. Mildew is usually black or gray in color, but can also be dull red or yellow. To determine if mildew is present, drop a small amount of bleach diluted with water on discolored surface. If mildew is present, bleach will destroy it and lighten the spots. If discoloration is simply dirt, bleach will have no effect.

Cure:

Mildew must be removed before painting. Painting over mildew guarantees its return. Mildew will grow through paint films rapidly, and correction will then require removal of the coating! All mildew-stained surfaces should be washed with a solution of 1 or 2 cups of household bleach per gallon of warm water shortly before painting. Commercial mixtures for washing the surface are also available at ridiculous prices as bleach is the main ingredient. Repeated applications may be necessary to completely remove discoloration. Repaint as soon as the surface is dry with a mildew-resistant paint. Multiple coats of quality products resist mildew growth longer than single coats. While there is no absolute cure for mildew, quality products will contain mildew resisting properties that can minimize its growth. Periodic examination and treatment of painted surfaces, in sound condition, with a solution of 1part household bleach to 15 parts water will restore a freshly applied appearance to the film. Due to their composition, latex products are less likely to grow mildew than oil-based products if you are using inferior products. The better products all contain anti-mildew chemical compounds to resist mildew and mould growth. Check with your paint dealer for details.

Problem:Uneven Gloss

Reason:

Surfaces with different levels of porosity may, after painting appear nonuniform in sheen. This problem is commonly referred to as "flashing". Uneven application can result in uneven film coverage that may cause different glosses across the finished surface. Moisture on the paint film during drying can also affect the evenness of surface gloss. Uneven gloss may also be caused by unsealed porous surfaces. In this case, a primer should be used to prepare the surface. Areas surrounding nail heads and wall studs tend to retain gloss because metal conducts heat and speeds up drying time. In addition, painting over a paint film that is not thoroughly dry or that is too soft can cause uneven gloss or "flashing to occur.

Cure:

If the surface is extremely porous, a prime coat is likely to solve the problem. Otherwise, another finish coat, should correct the problem. Some unevenness can be expected on rough surfaces, in such cases additional coats will be required to give better uniformity. If moisture contact has caused flatting or if major temperature variation (even if still above normally acceptable conditions) has occurred, apply another coat of paint when moisture is not present and/or when changes in temperature are less likely.

Problem:Poor Hiding Of Colors

Reason:

Possible causes of poor hiding include over-extended spreading, a radical color change, uneven application, excessive thinning, or inadequate mixing of paint. Certain colors such as yellow, red, and orange tones inherently offer weaker hiding.

Cure:

Most paints are supposedly designed to be applied as received even in the case of extreme color changes. Thinning, if necessary, should be at a minimum, yet will in some cases actually offer better coverage.(if the paint is excessively thick) Some paint manufacturers would like you to believe you need to buy more paint, seldom true. If all else fails an additional coat of the same color, applied with a good quality tool , will usually provide good hiding. The exceptions are extremely porous surfaces, and certain deep base, and "clear'" colors. These require a prime coat tinted to the appropriate color to give a base to the finish coats. Forget following your paint dealer's recommendation for type and size of applicators and purchase good quality tools. They would love to sell you over priced junk. You can get good tools at the build all that are usually of the same quality for half the price. Otherwise go for the brand names that painters use and trust, just call and ask any one of them what they use, if they refuse to tell you, what does that tell you about them?(I'd be happy to recommend some quality tools! For red paint you want to use a grey primer or base coat half to 3/4 the intensity of your finish red. For yellow a coat of white will do the trick and for orange you want to use just 1/4 grey coat. (1/4 intensity or co lour content of your orange finish. Follow these guide lines and you will be ignoring most paint store recommendations and saving your money by not having to apply more than 2 coats of your finish color. A coat of regular paint in the same color usually works for those "clear" type coats. Clear color coats are in my opinion, just a costly way of getting clear coat over paint as the end result is surprisingly similar.

Problem:Peeling From Plaster Walls

Reason:

Paint peeling from plaster is likely caused by chalking of the surface. This chalking can be caused by alkali, moisture, or insufficient wet trolling of the final coat. Other reasons for peeling is the presence of a glue size (from removed wallpaper), which absorbs water underneath the paint or cracking of plaster caused by excessive dry heat (electric heat without humidifiers, or just natural aging of the plaster.

Cure:

New plaster should be primed AFTER 311/2 days curing. This will allow for reduction in moisture and alkali content. After curing and before priming, the plaster should be wiped with a damp cloth to remove powder and dust. Peeling areas should be scraped down to a sound surface, smooth any scraped surfaces with sand paper until smooth. If peeling is severe, then all the paint should be removed, otherwise the remaining paint will peel, causing the new coat to peel. Cracks and holes in plaster should be repaired before repainting. If patching is necessary, a water-mix patch should be used when the intended topcoat is latex. as oil based patching compounds will tend to bleed into latex. When using a water-mix patch, thoroughly dampen the surrounding edges of the damaged areas to prevent the plaster from absorbing moisture and becoming brittle.Apply primer before and after filling cracks and holes. Wet sand when dry using a damp cloth. If the surface is greatly disintegrated, install drywall over top and tape to finish. (you could remove all of the plaster on distressed wall and then install drywall over strapping; or you can remove strapping first and then install drywall .) You can patch smaller areas that are greatly distressed using canvass to hold compound patch in place by taping over repair until dry. Remove slowly and carefully as not to dislodge from repair. Spraying a mist of water over canvass before removal may assist in removal of canvass.