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 Prior to painting make sure to have enough paint "boxed" (multiple cans mixed together to ensure color consistency) to complete an entire section.

1. Mix the paint thoroughly. Always stir before and during use.

2. Load your brush with paint. Immerse the first 1/3 of the bristles into the paint and tap the brush lightly side-to-side against the inside of the can. Do not drag the bristles across the lip of the can; this will rob your brush of half its paint carrying capacity.

3. When applying with a brush, use long, smooth strokes. Oil-based house paint should be brushed back and forth several times for a well spread, even coat. If paint gathers along the horixontal edge of the clapboard, paint is being applied too heavily or is not being adequately brushed out. Latex paints do not require much brushing. These paints dry quickly, and excessive brushing will cut deep brush marks permanently into the paint film. When using latex, apply paint generously, give it one or two back strokes and leave it to dry.

4. Using a roller. Roller application works well for porous surfaces such as masonry and stucco. Dip roller in paint tray and roll back and forth to remove excess paint. If it drips when picked up, it is overloaded. A roller is ideal for flat surfaces, but will not fit into inside corners and will deposit too much paint on edges of outer corners. Apply paint to those areas with a brush to ensure good coverage. Use long even strokes, rolling in different directions to coat the entire surface. Finish off with strokes in one direction.

5. Finish with the trim. Paint trim area last. Shutters can be removed, painted, and re-hung when the job is completed. Coat window sash and door paneling first, then paint the window frames, sills and door trim. Any paint on the putty line of the window will serve to protect the puttied surface from water. Excess paint can be scraped off with a razor blade to create a clean edge.
 
 

    Supplies

Extension Ladder
Step Ladder
Pot Hook
Cleaning Cloths
Drop Cloths
Sandpaper
Steel Wool
Wire Brush
Scraper
Hammer & Nail Set
Putty Knife
Joint Compound
Paint Pad Applicators
Spray Applicator
Extra Pail
Gloves/Goggles
Mineral Spirits
Paint Paddles
Plastic Bags
Caulking Gun
Caulk/Sealant
Brushes & Rollers
 Paints & Primers
Roller Tray
 
 
 

    1. Put drop cloths in place under areas being painted.
    2. Make sure all surfaces are smooth and free of cracks. Countersink exposed nailheads and spot prime.
    3. Fill nailhead depressions, cracks and imperfections with putty. Scrape out old caulk, re-caulk and prime. When working on bare wood, prime before re-caulking.
    4.Strip all damaged areas to bare wood. Prime the clapboards or shingles with a premium alkyd oil-based primer.  To avoid a patchwork look during the drying period, the primer should be tinted to match the existing color.
    5.Apply a high-quality 100 percent acrylic latex topcoat to the oil-based primed areas (after they have cured per the manufacturers instructions), with the top coat also tinted to match the existing color. A finish coat of 100% acrylic latex paint or stain should beapplied.
 
 

Tools / materials required

2" sash brush
bucket
canvas drop cloth
caulk
caulking gun
extension pole
painter's tape
putty knife
sandpaper
screwdriver
rags
gloves/goggles, mineral spirits (if using solvents)
roller handle
roller covers
roller tray
 

Preparation

lastRemove as much furniture as possible from the room. Cover the floor and remaining furniture with dropcloths. Plastic is ideal for covering furniture; however, a good canvas dropcloth is well worth the investment as it absorbs paint, is not slippery, will not move, and is reusable.

Remove pictures, mirrors, window treatments, electrical switch plates, and hardware. Loosen the ceiling plates of hanging light fixtures and cover the fixtures.

Surface dirt can result in poor adhesion. Use a light detergent solution and wash surfaces that are dirty, touched frequently, or that may have any oily residue caused by cooking. Be sure to wash doors and trim, particularly where handled. When clean, wipe surfaces with a damp cloth to rinse and allow to dry before painting.  It is important not to leave a residue from the detergent.

Special note on marking pens, crayon marks, and water stains:   Remove as much of the markings as possible using a liquid detergent, then wipe with clean water. Spot prime remaining marks with white shellac
to avoid them bleeding through the finish coat of paint.

Sand glossy surfaces with fine sandpaper to ensure proper adhesion. Be sure to remove sanding dust. Vacuum surfaces clean and wipe with a tack cloth.

Examine surfaces for nail holes, cracks, and other surface imperfections. Rake out larger cracks in walls and ceilings with a putty knife to remove loose particles.

Using a putty knife, firmly press spackling compound into the crevices and smooth until flush with surface. Fill mitered trim joinings (which have opened) and door or window trim (which has separated from the wall) by pressing the compound into the crevices and smoothing with your finger. Allow to dry and then sand lightly. Since patching compound shrinks as it dries, large holes and cracks usually require a second application after the first has dried.
Remove loose or scaling paint with a putty knife. Where removed from walls or ceilings, sand paint edges for a smooth surface. This will level the two levels of paint and will not be noticed when recoated. If removed from sash, trim, or doors, sand the entire surface with fine sandpaper.
 

Priming
 

This important step seals the surface prior to painting, thereby prolonging the wet edge of finish coats, reducing the incidence of lapmarks, and ensuring uniformity in color and lustre.
A common myth is that walls which have been painted many times do not need priming. On the contrary, many layers of latex paint can actually result in a very absorbent surface that requires priming.
Tip: Tint a primer until it approaches the color of your topcoat, particularly when using a deep color topcoat.
Sash, trim, and doors already coated with an enamel finish do not ordinarily require priming. (Remember, sand glossy areas to a dull finish.) However, if extensive repair work has been performed, a primer should be applied.
 Spot prime patched wall surfaces with latex formulations. For new drywall, a latex primer is recommended. For previously painted drywall, use Alkyd Primer .
Wood surfaces that are unpainted or previously painted and sanded to raw wood should be primed with  Alkyd Enamel Primer.
 
 

  Painting
 

 1. Begin by painting the ceiling.

 Start where the ceiling meets the walls.

 Using a 2" or 2 1/2" trim brush, 'cut in' by applying a 3"-wide strip of the coating along the perimeter of the wall/ceiling line, beginning at the corner
of  the room. It is recommended to cut in a section at a time, and alternate between cutting in and painting the ceiling. This maintains a wet edge on both the area being cut in and the rolled ceiling area and prevents a visible line between the cut-in area and the rest of the ceiling.
   Cover a roller with paint and slowly roll it back and forth over the ridges in the tray to remove excess paint. Begin near the corner, blending the coating into the ceiling line painted previously. Paint across the width rather than the length of the ceiling. Do not stop until the ceiling is completely covered. An extension pole, preferably adjustable, is a great tool, as it will allow you to reach more of the ceiling yet keep your feet on the floor. Rolling in a motion across rather than along your body will help to avoid neck and back strain.

2. Painting walls

When the ceiling is dry to the touch, return to the spot where you began coating the ceiling. Using a trim brush, carefully cut in the wall/ceiling line. If you do not feel comfortable cutting in freehand, allow the ceiling to thoroughly dry and mask off the edge with low-tack painter's tape. Let dry for a minimum of 24 hours before applying low-tack tape to fresh latex paint (otherwise, paint can pull off); certain drying conditions, such as humidity, will increase this time interval.

Coat along the baseboard and around the door and window trim.

If you are painting with a partner, one person should cut in and the other follow, applying paint with a roller. Paint one wall at a time, in order to avoid what looks like a stripe running around the border of the painted area; it occurs when the paint you cut in dries before the paint you roll on.
 

3. Cleaning up

Oil-Based Paints:  Clean brushes by working solvent into bristles. Squeeze out as much paint and solvent as possible. Repeat until paint disappears. Rinse in clear solvent, then wash in soapy water, rinse and let dry. Wrap and store in heavy paper.

Rollers: disassemble and submerge cover in solvent. When most paint has been worked out, wash the cover in mild detergent and rinse in clear water. Remove paint from frame and hardware with solvent. Hang roller to dry.

Water-Thinned (Latex) Paints:  Follow above cleaning procedures, substituting soapy water for paint solvent.

4. Proper disposal:

Water-thinned (latex) and oil-based paints should be used completely, reserving a small amount for touch-ups. Dry, empty containers may be recycled in a can recycling program. Consider donating unused product to a community group or civic organization or save solvent-thinned products for household hazardous waste collection. In most provinces, latex paint can be dried out in the can and disposed of in your household trash. Leave the lid off to show that the paint has hardened.