Cone
or Stick (Combustible) Incense (Scott Cunningham)
Combustible
incense (in the form of cones, blocks and sticks) is fairly complex in its
composition, but many feel the results are worth the extra work.
To be
blunt, this aspect of incense composition isn't easy. Some of the ingredients
are difficult to obtain, the procedure tends to be messy and frustrating. At
first, making combustible incense may seem impossible to accomplish. But
persevere and you'll be rewarded with the satisfaction of lighting incense cones
you've made yourself.
Gum
tragacanth glue or mucilage is the basic ingredient of all molded incenses. Gum
tragacanth is available at some herb stores; at one time in the past every
drugstore carried it. It is rather expensive, but a little will last for months.
To
make tragacanth glue, place a teaspoon of the ground herb in a glass of warm
water. Mix thoroughly until all particles are dispersed. To facilitate this,
place in a bowl and whisk or beat with an egg beater. This will cause foam to
rise, but it can be easily skimmed off or allowed to disperse. The gum
tragacanth has enormous absorption qualities; an ounce will absorb up to one
gallon of water in a week.
Let
the tragacanth absorb the water until it becomes a thick bitter-smelling paste.
The consistency of the mixture depends on the form of incense desired. For
sticks (the most difficult kind to r make) the mixture should be relatively
thin. For blocks and cones a thicker mucilage should be made. This is where
practice comes in handy after a session or two you will automatically know when
the mucilage is at the correct consistency.
If
you can't find tragacanth, try using gum arabic in its place. This, too, absorbs
water. I haven't tried using it for incense yet, but all reports say it works as
well as tragacanth.
When
you have made the trag glue, cover with a wet cloth and set aside. It will
continue to thicken as it sits, so if it becomes to thick add a bit of water and
stir thoroughly.
Next,
make up the incense base. Not all formulas can be used for combustible incense;
in fact, most of them were designed to be used as noncombustible incenses.
Fortunately, by adding the incense to a base it should work well. Here's one
standard formula for an incense base:
CONE INCENSE BASE
6
parts ground Charcoal (not self-igniting)
1
part ground Benzoin
2
parts ground Sandalwood
1
part ground Orris root (this "fixes" the scent)
6
drops essential oil (use the oil form of one of the ingredients in the incense)
2 to
4 parts mixed, empowered incense
Mix
the first four ingredients until all are well blended. Add the drops of
essential oil and mix again with your hands. The goal is to create a powdered
mixture with a fine texture. If you wish, run the mixture through a grinder or
the mortar again until it is satisfactory.
Add
two to four parts of the completed and empowered incense mixture (created
according to the instructions for Noncombustible Incense above). Combine this
well with your hands.
Then
using a small kitchen scale, weigh the completed incense and add ten percent
potassium nitrate. If you've made ten ounces of incense, add one ounce potassium
nitrate. Mix this until the white powder is thoroughly blended.
Saltpeter
should constitute no more than ten percent of the completed bulk of the incense.
If any more is added, it will burn too fast; less and it might not burn at all.
Potassium
nitrate isn't difficult to obtain. I buy mine at drug stores, so check these (it
isn't usually on the shelf; ask for it at the pharmacy). If you have no luck,
try chemical supply stores.
Next,
add the tragacanth glue. Do this a teaspoon at a time, mixing with your hands in
a large bowl until all ingredients are wetted. For cone incense you'll need a
very stiff, dough-like texture. If it is too thick it won't properly form into
cones and will take forever to dry. The mixture should mold easily and hold its
shape.
On a
piece of waxed paper, shape the mixture into basic cone shapes' exactly like the
ones you've probably bought. If this form isn't used, the incense might not
properly burn.
When
you've made up your cone incense, let it dry for two to seven days in a warm
place. Your incense is finished.
For
block incense make a 1/3 inch-thick square of the stiff dough on waxed paper.
Cut with a knife into one-inch cubes as if you were cutting small brownies.
Separately slightly and let dry.
Stick
incense can be attempted as well. Add more tragacanth glue to the mixed incense
and base until the mixture is wet but still rather thick. The trick here is in
determining the proper thickness of the incense/tragacanth mixture and in
finding appropriate materials to use. Professional incense manufacturers use
thin bamboo splints, which aren't available. So try homemade wooden or bamboo
splints, broom straws, very thin twigs, or those long wooden cocktail skewers
that are available at some grocery and oriental food stores.
Dip
the sticks into the mixture, let them sit upright and then dip again. Several
dippings are usually necessary, this is a most difficult process.
When
the sticks have accumulated a sufficient amount of the incense, poke them into a
slab of clay or some other substance so that they stand upright. Allow them to
dry.
One
variation on stick incense making uses a stiffer incense dough. Pat down the
dough on waxed paper until it is very thin. Place the stick on the dough. Roll a
thin coating of dough around the stick. The incense shouldn't be more than twice
the thickness of the stick. Squeeze or press it onto the stick so that it will
stay put, let dry.
Personally,
I find the inclusion of charcoal in this recipe to be distasteful and
unnecessary. It makes it imperative that you wash your hands numerous times
throughout this process. Although traditional, charcoal also lends a peculiar
odor to the incense. So here's another recipe I've used with good results:
CONE
INCENSE BASE #2
6
parts powdered Sandalwood (or Cedar, Pine, Juniper)
2
parts powdered Benzoin (or Frankincense, Myrrh, etc.)
l
part ground Orris root
6
drops essential oil (use the oil form of one of the incense ingredients)
3 to
5 parts empowered incense mixture
In
this recipe, powdered wood is used in place of the charcoal. Use sandalwood if
it's included in the incense recipe. If not, use cedar, pine or juniper,
depending on the type of incense to be made. Try to match the wood base of this
incense to the incense's recipe. If you can't, simply use sandalwood.
Mix
the first three ingredients until combined. Add the oil and mix again. Then add
three to five parts of the completed incense to this. Again, this should be a
powder. Weigh and add ten percent potassium nitrate.
Mix,
add the gum tragacanth glue, combine again and mold in the methods described
above.
I've
included this recipe for you die hard crafts people who are up to the challenge
of this messy and highly rewarding experience. Just as there are great
advantages to using and mixing your own loose incense. The same applies to
making your own combustibles as well. The closer you are to the origin of the
mixtures you use in healing, prayer and magick, the more involved your energy is
connected with the process. The search, collection, drying, preparation and
ultimate use become part of your ritual. For this reason it is recommend to
grind your herbs with a mortar & pestle. However, if you are having trouble
grinding certain substances that can be difficult, such as frankincense or are
making a large batch, using a grinder of some sort is fine.
Ingredients:
5 tbs. gum Arabic crystals
6 oz. crushed charcoal
1 oz. gum benison powder
1 tsp. sandalwood powder
1 tsp. ground coriander
1 oz. dried bay leaves (finely crumbled)
1 oz. dried lavender flowers (ground to a powder)
4-5 drops essential oil such as sandalwood or lavender
Put
the gum Arabic into a small bowl and mix to a stiff paste with water. Mix
charcoal, gum benison, sandalwood and coriander into the paste. Stir in the
crumbled bay leaves and lavender flowers and add the essential oil, stirring
until thoroughly blended.
Form into cone shapes about 1 1/2 inches high and leave them in a warm place for
about 2 days. When dry, wrap in foil to preserve the aroma. When ready to use
them, just light the tip to burn like regular store bought cone incense.
* This is just one recipe. Why not experiment using these guidelines and make
some of your own?